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Collar Sew the collar pieces together, right sides of fabric together. Once this is complete, the pattern may instruct you to grade the seam allowance. Grading is trimming the seam allowance separately. If you're a beginner, it may be easier for you to trim the seam instead. This will help reduce bulk and give your collar crisper edges. Also, there may be a curved edge to the collar and this needs to be clipped. I use pinking shears to trim the outside curve of the collar and then I clip the curve as well. (Outside curves should be notched and this is my way of doing that.) On the straight edges, simply grade or trim the seam, and then cut diagonally across the corner. Collar, with corner cut diagonally. Collar, curved seam pinked and trimmed. Once you've completed all the above steps, it's time to turn the collar right side out and press well. Many patterns will also instruct you to baste* the raw edges of the collar together (the part of the collar that will be attached to the bodice). This is to make it easier to handle sewing the collar to the bodice. *(Basting usually indicates a longer stitch length than the stitch length used for regular sewing. Also, when I baste the raw edges of a collar together, I use a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch seam allowance because this prevents the basting from showing on the completed garment, although the basting stitches are easily pulled out if necessary.) |
Sewing, Continued |
Baste the completed collar to the bodice. Since we are simply basting here, use a longer stitch length, and a smaller seam allowance (1/2 inch or 3/8 inch). Facings After the collar is basted to the bodice, it's time to sew the facing pieces together. (Make sure that you have the interfacing already applied to the facings.) Sew the front and back facing pieces together. Also, most patterns will instruct you to finish the outside edge of the completed facing. You may choose to do a zig zag stitch around the outside or you may simply want to "pink" it (use the pinking shears to slightly trim the outside edge of the facing.) Sew the completed facing to the bodice.(The above pictures show the facing pinned to the bodice.) Sewing the facing on to the bodice may feel somewhat bulky to you since you will be sewing through the thickness of the collar, the facing, and the bodice, but go slowly and take your time. Sewing the facing on to the bodice includes an inside curve around the neckline, which can be tricky to sew, but not impossible. Watch the edge of the fabric, not the needle, and remember to sew slowly around this curve. |