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Sew up one side of the facing (this is a straight edge and easy to sew) and once you get within about 5/8 inches of the top, place the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric so that you are now sewing the curved part of the seam (make sure that you are sewing a 5/8 inch seam allowance). Once you get to the other side of the bodice, repeat the above step and sew down the straight portion of the bodice. Press as stitched. Whew! Now that you have successfully sewn the facing on to the bodice, you can breathe a sigh of relief! Check to make sure that you don't have any of the bodice fabric tucked into the facing seam, and once you have determined that everything is ok, then either grade or trim the seam allowance (straight and curved part). Since this is a curve, you will also need to clip the curved part of the seam allowance. (I suggest that beginners trim the seams and don't trim them too closely or you may have more trouble with the next step, which is understitching.) At the corner, cut across diagonally so that you will have a nice sharp corner when pressed. Understitching Your facing and collar are now successfully sewn to the bodice. That wasn't hard, was it?! Now it's time to understitch. Don't panic, it's not as hard as it sounds. Understitching is necessary because it will prevent your facing from rolling to the outside of the garment. Turn the bodice to the right side. Press the seam allowance toward the facing piece (the right side of the fabric will be toward you) and stitch close to that seam. You can usually feel the seam under your fingers. If your sewing machine has a function where you can move the needle, that might help you sew closer to the sewn seam. Start on the straight edge and sew up within about an inch of the corner. Stop, take the bodice out, and once again, about an inch from the corner, begin to understitch the curved collar part of the bodice. Again, stop about an inch or so from the corner. The last step is much easier because you understitch/sew down the other straight edge of the bodice. |
After successfully completing understitching, turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press. At the corners, it's a good idea to use the point turner to help push out/sharpen the corners. (Don't use scissors because you may cut through the garment.) Press the bodice carefully. At this point, most patterns will instruct you to hand sew/catch-stitch the facing to the seams, but I usually have beginners wait to do all the hand stitching when the garment is mostly completed. My pattern now tells me to lap the right front of the bodice over the left front and baste. Here is where you have to think backwards. The right front will be to your left when facing you. |
Sewseamless |
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