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Aren't you proud of yourself?! By now, you should have sewn a completed bodice. For the moment, the bodice can be put aside because it's time to turn our attention to the sleeves. Sleeves There are several ways to apply sleeves. My pattern has instructions for set in sleeves. While the sleeve is flat (sleeve seams have not been sewn yet), set your machine on the basting stitch ( the longest stitch possible--usually about a 5). You will then sew between the notches on the sleeve cap, at 5/8 inch, and a second row of stitching will be sewn at 1/2 inch. ( I machine baste sleeve caps at 3/8 inch and less, but beginners would probably be more comfortable sewing at 5/8 and 1/2 inch.) Make sure to leave long thread tails at the ends. You will need these long thread tails later. This process is called "easing". One important thing to note about the sleeves: a single notch indicates the front of the sleeve and a double notch always indicates the back of the sleeve. While the sleeve is still flat, turn up about 1/4 inch on the bottom (the wrong side to the wrong side--illlustration) and sew. This makes it easier for beginners to hand hem later. Another option is to zig zag the bottom of the sleeve, and instead of doing a slip stitch or fell stitch to hem, this will allow you to a blind hem stitch. I personally think the slip stitch might be easier for beginners. Placing right sides of the fabric together, and matching the fabric edges and notches, pin, and sew the sleeve seam. Press as stitched and then press the seam open. Press on a seam roll if you have one. |
We have now eased the sleeve cap and have the sleeve seam sewn and pressed open. Now we have to sew the sleeves into the completed bodice. This can be tricky, but not impossible. Take a deep breath and here goes: Turn the bodice so that it is completly inside out. Take the sleeve and put it inside the bodice, matching the underarm seams and notches. Gently pull the bobbon threads on the sleeve cap so that the sleeve fits into the armhole. Once it fits correctly, pin the sleeve into the bodice. Now slowly sew around the sleeve. Once completed, the sleeve cap on the outside of the garment should be smooth, with no puckers. It may be better if I simply illustrate this with pictures. Most people sew with the sleeve up, and there is an advantage to sewing the sleeve in this way. You can use your fingers to smooth the eased part of the sleeve and usually prevent puckers. I sew with the sleeve toward the feed dogs of my machine because I believe it helps to ease the sleeve. It's a little trickier this way, but the end result is the same. Both methods are illustrated in the bottom two pictures above. |
Sewseamless |