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Sewseamless |
After both sleeves are sewn into the bodice, and you have checked to make sure that there are no puckers, it's time to breathe a huge sigh of relief and press the sleeve seam allowance toward the sleeve. Once again, the bodice can be put aside. It is now a completely finished bodice, with collar and sleeves sewn in. Skirt The skirt will seem so much easier to sew than the bodice! For the most part, you will sew straight seams, instead of curves. The only exception will be the pockets, but those won't be seen on the outside of the garment, so it doesn't matter quite so much. Placing right sides together, and using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, sew the pocket pieces to each side of the skirt front and to each side of the skirt back. Press as stitched and then press the seam allowances toward the pocket. After sewing the pocket pieces on to the skirt front and back, pin the back and front skirt pieces together, and also pin the pocket pieces together. Even though I have marked circles on my skirt piece, I sew from the bottom up to a point where I pivot and sew a 5/8 inch seam allowance around the pocket. At this point, you will notice that you still have to sew from the circle at the upper part of the pocket to the upper edge of the skirt. This is sewn very close to the seam (the seam is a result of sewing the pocket to the skirt piece.) This completely closes the side seam, while leaving the pocket open.* Clip the back seam allowance below the pocket, as illustrated here: Press the skirt side seam open. The upper edge of the skirt (the part that will be sewn to the bodice) is treated in a similar fashion to the sleeve cap. However, the sleeve cap was eased, while the skirt is going to be gathered. Once again, set your machine to a basting/gathering stitch of about 5 (the longest stitch on your machine) |
Machine baste, with long stitches, at 5/8 inch and again at 1/2 inch(or at 1/2inch and 3/8 inch)from the raw edge of the top of the skirt. Make sure you don't baste over the pockets! Also, break the basting/gathering at the seams. It will be much harder to gather the skirt if you try to sew over the side seams. Make sure you leave long thread tails as well. Pull on the thread tails and gather the skirt. Once the skirt is gathered, pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together, and matching notches and side seams. Pin the in-seam pockets toward the front of the skirt. Press the waist seam toward the bodice. Although we haven't really talked about seam finishes, it's a good idea to finish all seams that won't be enclosed on your garment. This, along with good pressing, makes your finished sewing project look more professional. An easy way to finish seams, especially on a child's garment is to pink (trimming with the pinking shears) the edges of the seam allowances. Zigzagging along the raw edges of the seam allowances is also acceptable. If your sewing machine has a stitch that is similar to a serging stitch, sometimes called a double overedge stitch on some machines, this is a nice look as well. Once you are a sewing pro, you might want to consider purchasing a serger. |
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